Lower Zambezi NP & Kasanka - Zambia

After all the trials and tribulations of the Kafue and forced detour to Lusaka it felt good to be on our way at last. The Lower Zambezi, a park which we had never seen before, has a worldwide reputation for its game and the beauty of it's location on the banks of the mighty Zambezi river. Indeed the area on the opposite Zimbabwe bank has been designated a world heritage site so we travelled with high expectations.

As you drive through Africa you see some wonderful sights,  most people still use shanks pony to get about so the roads especially near to the villages and towns always have loads of pedestrians, donkey carts and assorted domestic animals going about their business and there is always something entertaining to see.

For instance in rural areas the women tend to carry everything on their heads, quite often leaving their hands completely free. Their grace and ability to walk with huge loads is truly amazing and even the very young girls will be seen walking with small items on their heads, although they cheat now and again by keeping an arm up to steady themselves.

Some of the items carried are really funny, like a single shoe or one time a singer sewing machine but today was one of the best off all when we came across a very serious looking lady walking quite normally towards us with a china teacup and saucer perched on her head - our first thought, was it full or empty?

Our route took us back South in the direction of Livingstone to a small town called Kafue (no relationship to the park) then from here towards the Zambezi via Chirundu the border town with Zimbabwe.

On the the maps it looks easier and quicker to reach the Lower Zambezi by heading East from Lusaka on the Great East Road towards Chipata and the Malawi border then strike due South. However, beware, this route requires some very arduous off road driving and you need permission from the National Parks to enter via this way as they need to warn the rangers to look out for you. Indeed when we entered the park the rangers were  worried about a vehicle which had failed to turn up coming down this route and when you bear in mind the parks do not have the wherewithal to come out and look for you if you get lost or stuck then you could be out there for a very long time or for ever in some cases.

The road to Chirundu and the border with Zimbabwe is on good tar and is a pleasant drive through some pretty mountain scenery. We made the first stage to Kafue in good time but sods law from there they were repairing the road so three or four times we were shunted off into the bush over very bumpy dirt tracks for five miles or so, but eventually we reached Chirundu.

I don't know why but border towns always tend to have a somewhat unsavoury feel to them and Chirundu didn't disappoint. Whether its because of the constant trucks stranded or waiting to cross over or all the chancers looking to make a quick buck but we haven't been to one where you felt you would want to hang around so it was sods law that we missed the unmarked turning for the Lower Zambezi and ended up right at the border with Zimbabwe which resulted in us turning around and getting stuck behind a convoy of trucks coming into Zambia. 

We realised what we had taken for a scruffy dirt road into a crowded shanty town was actually the road we needed to take but thankfully we were soon through the hustle and bustle of the crowd and back into the countryside driving parallel with the river.

To progress along the Zambezi you need to first cross the not insignificant Kafue river via a hand pulled pontoon which amazingly is provided free of charge. Travelling on these pontoons is always an experience as the machinery is usually well past its use by date and you never quite feel confident you will get across in one piece.

On reaching the jetty we found the pontoon was just reaching the other bank where it would wait until someone pitched up wanting to come back to our side so we had a wait. At least there were no other vehicles waiting to cross so we were assured of being first on when it eventually did return but for now we would just have sit it out.

Riverbanks in African villages are always a scene of much activity so while we waited we had a group of curious local women and kids using the jetty to perform the daily tasks of washing themselves, their clothes and assorted pots and pans. This is a great social gathering for the women where for a while they can escape the scrutiny of the men folk and have a good natter, indeed we have seen women walk a over a mile to a river to wash even though they had plenty plenty clean water where they lived so we presume they do this just so they can get away on their own for awhile.

Eventually the pontoon returned but by now it was 1pm and the 'Captain' announced it was time for lunch, we knew this was really for our benefit so after a bit of banter and a few biscuits to keep them going he agreed to take us over then have lunch! Even so it took 20 minutes of strenuous pulling on the drive wheel by a couple of likely lads to get us across as the water was quite choppy. 

From here the drive to the park is pretty straightforward, following the river through a very fertile growing area full of small settlements with plenty of people along the way and kids jumping out from behind every bush demanding 'sweeties'. Soon you also start to pass a number of lodges which surprised us as  we were still quite a way from the park. We really don't see much point in staying at these 'early' lodges as the game outside the park is limited and you would spend hours driving back and forwards to the park each day.

Having said that there is sadly no cheap options or public campsites in the park itself so if you want to sleep within its confines you have no choice but to stump up US$ 500 + each per night to stay at one of the up market tented camps. For us after investing a small fortune in making ourselves totally self sufficient paying $1000+ for a bed is not really an option unless we have a very special occasion to celebrate.

Therefore, we opted to stay at Chiawa, a public Campsite run by the local community which lies quite close to the park gate. After here there is only one other lodge, Chongwe River Camp, which is closer to the park but again you pay big bucks to stay there, especially if your in their newly opened exclusive Chongwe River House which we have to say is something else again.

We arrived at Chiawa just after 4pm, it had taken longer getting here than expected as we kept stopping to take GPS co-ordinates and notes for Chris's next edition of his guide. The campsite is basically a narrow piece of flat ground perched right on the edge of the steep river bank and is mostly used as an overnight stop by the canoe safari companies who take clients up and down the river. Luckily all was quiet when we arrived so we were able to pick our spot and and camped at the furthest point with stunning views up and down the Zambezi and across to Zimbabwe. 

Chiawa has basic flush toilets but only cold showers so if we wanted hot water we would have to use our solar shower whilst here. Having said that it costs $10 each per night to camp, double what the guide books say, which is a bit steep considering the lack of facilities. It appears the community has now cottoned on to how much the lodges charge in similar locations and understandably wants some of the cake. However, that evening over a lovely sunset as we drank our G&Ts with loads of firefly's flitting about like little Tinkerbells and the Bull frogs giving their rendition of the Frog Song, an Elephant came mooching about in the bush behind us so it suddenly all seemed well worth it. 

Next morning as we looked across to Zimbabwe we could see small herds of Buffalo, Impala, Lechwe and a few Ele' coming down to the river to drink. This area is part of the famous Mana Pools game park and the riverbank here is mostly floodplains as against the steeper banks on the Zambian side so it is much more  game friendly. We have always wanted to visit Mana so it was a bit frustrating to be so near yet so far - we can only hope that Zimbabwe has a change of government so we are able to  visit there next year.

After breakfast we drove out to explore the area and to check how far it was to the park gate. On turning the first corner we almost ran into a big old Ele enjoying his early morning stroll, it was probably the same one we heard last night in the bush behind the camp. He was naturally a little miffed at our sudden intrusion and made us wait awhile before allowing us to get by, which was just as well as the track was far too narrow to go around.

It took 30 mins to reach the gate where we stopped to chat with the rangers. It turned out prices had recently risen (no surprise there then) and it would cost us US$30 each and $15 for Rupert per day to enter the park. The gate opens at 6am and closes at 6pm, except for lodge vehicles who are allowed to stay till 7.30pm to do 'night drives'. However as it was already mid morning we decided rather than go in now we would wait and get there bright and early the next day.

Next morning, in darkness, we were up at 5.30am and after putting down the roof tent and ensuring the camp was relatively baboon safe we hit the road. The track to the gate winds in and out of some thick bush until a short distance from the gate when it suddenly opens out onto a small river/lagoon. You need to cross the river at this point which thankfully at this time of year is fairly shallow however we could see by the erosion high up on the river banks how high it must be in the wet when the park can be cut off for long periods.

Thanks to our visit the previous afternoon we were through the gate formalities in just eight minutes and at last in the park. The Lower Zambezi is a stunningly beautiful park set between high mountains in the North and the river in the South. Away from the river the land is dry and fairly non descript but as you near the river it is really lovely with tall stands of trees and hidden little Dambo's (ponds) dotted about here and there.

We spent the whole day exploring the park and beside the odd lodge vehicle it was virtually empty of visitors, I guess we saw less than 10 vehicles all day which was lovely.

Sipping coffee beside a Dambo we watched a group of Hippo's enjoying the clear water, then we got up close and personal with a couple of big Bull Ele's and shortly later came across a good sized herd of Buffalo.

Finally to Sue's delight we discovered a Lioness with three lovely little cubs hidden away in the grass and later came across Dad taking a siesta nearby. It's not often you come across a single small family like this with no sign of other pride members, if they are truly on their own then they will do well to keep all the cubs in one piece.

After spending a lovely full day we exited the park and were back at our camp by 6.10pm just in time for showers before it got dark. Sipping our Gin Riokeys around the fire we listened to Hyena calling in the distance but no Lion, we just hoped the cubs were safe.

Next day we lounged in camp and did a few jobs, tomorrow we would head back to Lusaka to prepare for the next stage of our journey Northwards to Bemba land and Kasanka where we and poor Rupert were to have a traumatic few days.

After two days in Lusaka catching up with emails and re-stocking with food, drink and fuel we hit the road again, this time Northwards through the middle of the country. Our main goal was the Bangweulu Swamps where we hoped to see the elusive and rare Shoebill stork but as it is too far to reach in one go we decided to stop on the way at a small privately run park called Kasanka.

Chris describes Kasanka as being "so well kept it is a delightful place to spend a relaxing few days"  in our case he couldn't have been more wrong!

We left Lusaka at 9am and apart from passing some guys trying to sell Meyers Parrots in cages at the side of the road the first part to Kabwe was uneventful. It is heartbreaking to see  cheap trafficking in these beautiful birds but it seems there are no laws to stop this trade or if there is little impetus to enforce them, sadly their is no RSPB out here!

The road to Kabwe is good tar all the way so despite the many police roadblocks we reached there around 11am and arrived at Kapiri Mposhi 30 minutes later. Here we needed to turn NE towards what was until recently called the Zaire (now the Dem Republic of Congo) border and a town called Mkushi.

Even though this forms part of the great North road the turning coming from Lusaka is not signposted so unless you know it you can easily sail past, just like we did for quite a way before realising our mistake. It was 1pm by the time we reached Mkushi where to delay us even further a policeman at the roadblock insisted on scrutinising our passports for ages (first and only time this has been done).

Eventually we reached Serenje, the last place to get fuel before turning to Kasanka and the swamps and at 4pm we finally reached Wasa Lodge, Kasanka's headquarters, where we had to register. According to the guide books Kasanka has two campsites at the Pontoon and at Fibwe however we were told Fibwe was closed and the Pontoon was full but we could stay at a new site deeper in the park called Kabwe, great, only one problem they had no maps showing us where the site was!   

Luckily Chris's book has quite a good map of the park so with that and a few vague directions we eventually reached the campsite at exactly 5pm -  8 hours of almost solid driving, we were starting to realise this is one big country.

From Wasa we had passed through a number of Tsetse fly belts but thankfully the camp seemed clear of flies and to our delight we found it empty except for two local guys who introduced themselves as Felix and Sydney. They explained they came with the camp and would look after us during our stay, which basically meant setting up and lighting the fire each day and luxury of luxury's ensuring we had hot showers when we wanted! They would also cook and wash clothes if we had wanted but we were happy with just the basics. The other good thing was they had obviously been well trained as they stayed out of our way until we needed them. 

The camp was obviously new as it had a nice new reed Lapa to sit/cook in, a new shower enclosure and new long drop loo, all this and the great views convinced us we had made the right choice in coming here.

After lovely hot showers under the stars (courtesy of Sydney and Felix) we settled down for the night. The view in front was across a plain and as it got dark we could see bush fires in the distance. However, apart from some Hippo in the distance there was not much in the way of animal noises so we went to bed quite early.

Next morning after breakfast we decided to drive over to Fibwe  to a tree hide overlooking a swamp where it says if your lucky you can spot the shy and elusive Sitatunga antelope which lives there. We had seen Sitatunga years ago in the Okavango Delta in Botswana but as they only live in and near to swamps it's rare that you get the chance to see them.

As we said Kasanka doesn't have maps of the park (or didn't when we asked) so we were relying on the one in Chris's guide book and the GPS co-ordinate he gave. There are a few road signs at certain places but these are very few and far between and the tracks criss cross and branch quite a bit. Reaching a fork in the road I initially took what I thought was the right direction but the Garmin seemed to indicate we were going away from the hide so I backed up intending to go back to the junction to re-check.

Sue asked did I want her to guide me round the bend but maybe I was feeling a bit frustrated by the indecision or still tired from the previous days journey but impatiently I said I was ok - big mistake! As I slowly reversed around the corner we suddenly hit something and with the sound of shattering glass I feared the worse.

Even so the worst I expected was a broken reflector, but to our horror the damage was much much worse, in fact for a minute we could not believe what we were seeing. I had hit an outstretched branch of a tree at no more than a snails pace but sods law the thing was one of the so called Ironwoods (because they are as hard as iron!) and it had taken out the rear wing, ladder, light guard, indicator and the reversing light, unbelievable!

I couldn't understand why the ladder and light guard had not protected us more but then realised that we had hit the tree in the worst spot possible, just to the left of the ladder so it had pushed that and the light guard sideways then proceeded to demolish the wing and lights, if we had only hit a few inches to the right then at least the lights and wing might have survived.

Once the ranting and recriminations subsided we turned our minds to practicalities. This was serious because in Zambia there are loads of police roadblocks where they check you and your vehicle out and they are nearly always looking for any excuse to 'fine' you, especially Mzungu's (whites) If we tried driving back on the public roads they way we were it would be like declaring open season on our wallet! At the very least we would have to fix up the indicator and reversing light before leaving Kasanka - although this is easier said than done when your in the middle of nowhere.

On the plus side we carry spares for Africa so we had a full set of spare reflectors and bulbs and a plethora of tools.  However , the first problem was the buckled ladder was preventing us from opening the door to the back box where said tools and spares are kept. Rather than battle with it in the bush we decided to push onto the hide, take time out and decide what to do next and to add insult to injury the track we had first taken was in fact correct it just appeared to the Garmin that it was wrong - lesson learned never wholly trust GPS.

If we were looking for a relaxing time at the hide we were in for a shock. The hide is at the top of a very tall tree and to reach it you need to climb three steep rickety looking ladders, the worst being you have to climb and turn at the second ladder to reach a small platform about 60 foot above the ground. Not good if you don't like heights like Sue (or me for that matter) but by now I was determined to see the view from the bloody thing come what may - so we climbed.

In the UK this would be off limits as being too dangerous as all you had to stop you falling backwards was a flimsy rail on each side which was almost down near your ankles, they must think you have arms like Gorillas. It was a struggle but eventually we made it and yes we didn't see one bloody Sitatunga! 

Back at camp I managed to unbolt the ladder enough to get into the back box and fit replacement reflectors on the indicator and reversing lights but to my surprise and dismay I found we didn't have a replacement bulb for the indicator. For some reason the one fitted by Foleys was larger than the ones we carried so there was nothing for it but to drive all the way over to Wasa to see if they had a bulb we could use. As we drive out Felix waves us down to ask if we are going to Wasa can we pick up a replacement battery for their radio as both the ones they have are flat and they cannot communicate with the rest of the park staff.

We trek all the way to Wasa only to find the guy we need to see about the bulb, Mr Chimpondi, had gone to his village so we would have to come back in the morning, bugger this just wasn't our day. However after some debate we did manage to persuade the office to hand over a replacement battery for the boys walkie talkie. It was obvious they didn't really want to do this, (probably thought we were going to nick it or something) but boy where we glad later that they did.

All this farting around meant we arrived back at camp in the dark, but at least Sydney and Felix had a nice fire waiting for us and soon they had the hot water ready for showers - the only good thing that had happened to us all day!

Next morning we were up early and after Felix & Sydney had brought us hot water for washing and we had a quick breakfast we headed off yet again for Wasa.  This time I decided that instead of going the usual route through the forest and battling with the Tsetse's we would try another way and combine it with a bit of a game drive.

The new route meant we would head out across the plain in front of our camp and cross a small river via a drift which from our camp we could see in the distance.  I had seen a parks vehicle cross here coming the other way the night we arrived so I knew it was passable and I was curious to see what this part of the park was like - soon I would wish I hadn't bothered.

By now Felix and Sydney had disappeared back to their camp so we're not around to see us off. The river is where the boys go to fetch water each day and it's a fair hike but of course in Rupert we reached it in no time.  Where the track enters the drift (or ford) is maintained by the parks staff and is marked by two poles in the water, the idea being as long as you stay inside the poles you will be safe.

On our nearside the river fell away in a small weir so naturally I decided to stay as close as possible to the poles on our right, however no sooner had we entered the water the front offside wheel went right down into a deep hole! Still, no need to panic just shift to low range and reverse back out - but even with the ARB diff locker on we don't move an inch. Indeed within seconds we have slid further down and are now listing at quite an angle.

After yesterdays catastrophe I couldn't believe what was happening. Over the last eight months we had driven all the way up from Cape Town without a mishap and now in the space of two days we were on the verge of wrecking Rupert! Even with the door shut water is starting to come into the cab on my side and I'm starting to get worried. The engine was still running and luckily we have a snorkel but I was desperate not to suck water into the engine and electrics.

First thing was to get Sue out and back safely on dry ground, but when I try to open my door for even an instant the water just pours in so we list even further. Now I'm getting really worried as the water is up to the top of the wheel arch and most fundi's say never go into water deeper than halfway up your wheel for fear of damage or sinking!

Kasanka was turning out to be a real nightmare, at least Sue spies the boys running over from our camp, they must have seen us drive off across the plain and monitored our progress or lack of it! One thing about African's they are well used to extricating cars from tight corners, they have to be, given the conditions out here. Bless their hearts they come equipped with a plank and couple of big bits of wood, if we could just get these under the wheels then maybe we could get enough traction to reverse out.

However, although the guys try valiantly to jam the wood under the wheels, the problem is we have now sunk so low we cannot  get anything under the front tyre and Rupert's undercarriage was now firmly trapped on the rocks.

Despite the water flooding into the cab I got out and worked with the guys to try and free some of the rocks, but it was hopeless there was just no room to manoeuvre them.

There was only one solution we would have to use the High Lift to jack Rupert up enough so we could pull the rocks out from under the chassis and at the same time try to jam the wood in under the wheels.  Problem is the jacking points are at the front and that was in the deepest water plus the angle and the uneven river bed meant I could not attempt to safely jack there.

It was about now that I also noticed Felix kept looking around very nervously and Sydney was tending to stay close to dry land. When I ask why it turns out there are some big Croc in this river - this was sure turning into one hell of a day! 

With sinking heart I knew I had no choice but to try jacking  under the running board below the drivers door and for sure this would likely bugger up the board and possibly the door sill.  With the jack in position and protective cloths to prevent it rubbing up against the paintwork I slowly start to lift Rupert. It was tricky as Hi Lifts are notoriously dangerous at the best of times and here we were balancing on a very uneven slippery surface with a lot of fast flowing water and I was deeply worried that Rupert would fall off the jack and injure one of us or make the situation worse.

Rupert's a very heavy vehicle to lift but eventually we managed to jack up enough so at least we could start pulling the biggest rocks from underneath. Problem was it all had to be done by feel as we were in at least 3 foot of water but eventually once it felt like we had removed the biggest rocks I lowered Rupert and we tried reversing again, nothing, we just couldn't get enough traction to pull out of the hole. 

The only good news was Sydney had at last managed to get though to Wasa on their walkie talkie and they confirmed they would send a tractor over to pull us out. We thanked God we had pushed for their replacement battery last night otherwise we would have been stuffed. Soon after a young white guy pitches up on a trail bike and introduces himself as Les. It seems he has recently started working in the park and amongst his duties he is responsible for maintaining this drift so he had come over to give us some moral support! However he doesn't do himself any favours when he nonchalantly declares they are   thinking about closing this drift cos loads of people get stuck here - well do it then dickhead!  

After what seems an age we hear the slow drone of an engine and a huge tractor with trailer rumbles to a halt. Instantly we are surrounded by a small army of helpers who in true African fashion all want to get involved in the action. If I hadn't stopped them they would have attached the tow rope and pulled us out there and then without confirming all was clear underneath so I had visions of them ripping off an axle or worse.

Feeling around underneath as best I could in three foot of water, everything seemed ok so I decided as well as the pull I would try and reverse out with the ARB diff locker on. At first Rupert hardly moved but then with one last big pull he came free and we came out of the hole and staggered back on dry land.

We had been stuck for over three hours, again a complete waste of a morning. To top it all as feared we had damaged the running board and door sill by using the Hi Lift but other than that Rupert seemed ok. Les et al quickly departed back to Wasa and after thanking Felix and Sydney for all their hard work, we followed them.  At Wasa at least we finally tracked down the elusive Mr Chimpondi and to his great credit he worked all afternoon in his workshop trying to put Rupert back into some sort of roadworthy condition.

It's pitch dark by the time we leave and we don't get back to camp until well after 9pm. Touchingly Felix and Syd are stood beside a big fire waiting for us with worried looks on their faces,  they look genuinely pleased to see us back in one piece and soon have hot showers ready which was very welcome. A couple of stiff G&T's and a supper of cuppa soup and bread we fall exhausted into bed.

Next morning we break camp, we give Felix and Sydney US$20 each plus a few beers and some food, which they are well chuffed about. In truth they have been the only good thing in the whole disastrous stay at Kasanka and we will miss them, as we leave Syd suddenly motions us to wait then rushes off and comes back with a big wooden spoon which he had been carving as a present from them - we have it now in the UK as a bitter sweet memento of our stay with them. 

Our final task before leaving Wasa was to pay the bill, incredibly all this hassle was going to cost us US$ 206. $12 per night to camp, $10 each per day entry permit and $15 per day entry permit for Rupert plus $30 (on top of the $20 we gave Mr Chimpondi) for workshop time in fixing Rupert up yesterday afternoon!

No other way to describe Kasanka as an unmitigated disaster, loads of Tsetse, hardly any game, a poorly signed road system and poorly maintained drift which we heard later they have now closed off. If we never see Kasanka again then that will be too soon.

At least we could look forward to our next destination, Shoebill Island and hope it would erase the traumas of the last few days!