South Luangwa NP - Zambia (see Aug for photo's)

We left the Luambe gate at 6.20am after handing out pens and pencils to the kids who were already starting their days journey on foot to the nearest school a few miles away. On the way through the park we popped into the Luangwa Wilderness Lodge which the ranger said we could drive to last night, to check it out.

The lodge itself is nicely situated on the banks of the river with many Hippo but the campsite was not so nice being full at the time with some researchers. Still we met the Dutch owner Carola and she kindly took us round and gave us a much welcome cup of coffee.

Luambe is a quite pretty park but we didn't see much game and we got the impression it would be hard to see at the best of times. Its small so by 9am we had reached the Southern gate at Chakolwa, from here we would drive towards  the Nsefu area of the South Luangwa park. 

On the way we stopped to check out a new bushcamp called Mwanya (It's Wild is their logo!). This is run by the local community and is less than 1k off the track but they seem to have lost the plot here. They have three basic chalets @ US$30 p.p.p.n plus camping @ $10 p.p.p.n but when we asked were you camped they pointed to a very small area right in front of a chalet and when we asked about showers & loos they said you  use the chalet. Ah but what happens when there are people staying in the chalet?  After some thought they then they said you cannot camp! 

By 11am we had arrived at Chikwinda the Northern gate for S Luangwa, we told the rangers we would just transit the park to reach Mfuwe and they took us at our word and let us in free of charge, we assume though that they radio the other gate to warn them when you enter otherwise you could stay in the park all day for nothing!

An hour later we exited the park at the Milyoti gate and half an hour later were finally back on tar to Mfuwe, arriving at Wildlife camp at 12.50, 235 miles through the bush in a day and a half.

For the budget traveller there is not a huge choice of places to stay if you want to visit the the park. There are no public campsites in the park as South Luangwa is really aimed towards the upmarket tourist who purchases expensive fly in trips to one of the  tented camps run by the private safari operators.

In the past we have done this ourselves staying at three camps run by Norman Carr Safaris and a couple run by Remote Africa Safaris and have to say it is a memorable experience as South Luangwa is where walking safari's first started so most of the camps are geared up for this. However it does not come cheap, a night in a typical camp today costs on average $500 + p.p.p.n  full board including drinks and activities (but not always park fees), so for the average person it is the sort of holiday you would do once in a blue moon.  

Outside of the park around Mfuwe there are some budget camps, the best known probably being Flatdogs (the local nickname for Crocodiles) which is popular with the Overlanders and backpackers so it has a reputation for it's 'social' atmosphere.

We prefer to enjoy the night sounds of the bush to that of a German bellowing over his beer or Brits on tour playing pool and Wildlife Camp was recommended by some South Africans we had met on the road as being more our sort of place, plus it was cheap at just $7.50 p.p.p.n.

First impression when we drove in was not so good as the place seemed busy with one overland truck and at least three private vehicles already camped up. However, always on arrival at a new site we park up and walk the site to see if we can find a little bolthole and sure enough we found a gem of a spot at the furthest reach of the campsite with stunning views of the river and best of all access to main power in the form of an old socket hidden nearby (although we don't think this was intended for use by the campers!)

Talking to Tom the watchman it seemed the spot had only been vacated by a bunch of South Africans in the last hour and some Germans (who had gone into the park for the day) had their eyes on it. Tough, they should have hung around and bagged it when it came free (they came back later in the day and were not best pleased to see we had nabbed it!) but its dog eat dog in the camping world! That night we had an Ele visit us in the early hours and watched as he walked around the tent, even avoiding our washing line, a great start.

Next day as the views were so good and it was nice and quiet we decided to stay in camp and chill out after the exertions of the last few days, which translated into Sue doing the laundry and me greasing and oiling Rupert! That night after hot showers and cold Gin Riokeys we enjoyed a lovely sunset watching the game as it came down to drink at what water was left in the river.

Next morning we awoke to a beautiful sunrise and left camp soon after so by 6.30 we where through the gate and in the park. It cost US$30 each for entry plus US$15 for Rupert, $75 in total to stay in the park until 6pm.

First thing we came across was a horny Puku buck, an antelope only found in certain areas of Southern Africa. Similar in size to an Impala they are much fewer in number and have a thicker coat, more russet in colour and lack the stripes on the bum, having said that Puku and Impala will often graze together so some may get them confused.

It was clear as he prowled amongst his harem that this guy was in the mood for love and soon he found the lady he was seeking and got down to business. Before mounting the Puku buck lifts his foreleg and rests it on the Doe which seems to indicate she is the lucky one today and she lowers herself in anticipation. This was the first time we had witnessed Puku mating and it was quite interesting to watch however, an Impala buck grazing close by was totally unimpressed!

Next up was two dead Ele's calf's or so we thought, we came across them a little way off in the bush, seemingly on their own, lying on their sides, not moving an inch, which seemed strange. We watched for ages then to our relief one finally flicked it's ear and eventually staggered to its feet, just taking a nap but well out of it .

Our plan, apart from exploring the park, was to drive towards Tafika, a camp we had stayed at years before and say hello to the owners, John & Carol Coppinger. Tafika lies on the opposite bank of the river, technically outside the park but we knew from our stay there it is possible to walk across to it in the dry season. The tricky bit would be finding the crossing spot on this side of the river but thanks to Chris we at least had a GPS for Tafika to aim for.

As we rounded a bend in the river we came across two Lioness lying in the shade of a bush on the other side of the dry river bed. One looked older than the other and seemed intent on sleeping, the other, however, was obviously feeling hungry and was alert watching some Puku grazing further along the river.

We decided to park up and wait to see what might happen, slowly the Puku moved closer, clearly they hadn't seen the Lions yet. We watched as the Lioness, who by now was crouched as low as she could get, inched bit by bit using the cover of the land into position, still the Puku didn't see her.  Suddenly she bolted from cover and ran at the Puku who scattered, picking one out she gave chase and to our surprise it took off and came straight towards us, the Lioness at full pelt behind.

We were parked high up on the bank so the Puku didn't see us until the last second and nearly ran right into Rupert, just veering past into the bush. Meanwhile the Lioness lost momentum on the slope and gave up and knackered wandering off to rejoin the older Lioness who through it all had taken hardly any interest, still for us it was very exciting while it lasted.

A little later quite by accident we came across a lodge well hidden in the bush. It wasn't open but a couple of young white guys and a girl came out to greet us. It turned out this was Lion camp which Chris wrote in his guide book had fallen into disrepair in 2001, been sold and was undergoing refurbishment by new owners and was due to be completed in 2004! 

Two years later and obviously it was still not open, they told us they had come up this year tasked with getting the work completed but would soon have to admit defeat and pack up  before the rains started in November otherwise they could be stranded here till May!

The setting for the camp deep in the bush is nice enough but  again the owners seem to have lost the plot as they feel to encourage people to stay they have to make it into some grand ediface. Sadly it now looks something akin to a baronial hall gone wrong with huge entrance doors, heavy dark furniture and worst of all a huge snooker table bang in the middle of the reception/bar area! We wish them luck but the signs don't look good for this place.

One thing the guys were able to tell us was the track to Tafika had been washed away in last years rains so we would not be able to get all the way through and as time was getting on we decided to turn around and head back, shame as we had wanted to see Tafika again.

Instead on the way back we decided to try and find Kaingo an exclusive tented camp run by Derek and Jules Shenton. When we stayed at Kakuli, one of Norman Carr's camps, in the 90s we had passed the track into Kaingo whilst on a game drive and it had looked very inviting as it winds through big stands of flat topped Acacia trees, we had resolved then to try and stay there sometime. 

We had met Derek's Mum in January 2005 at Destinations, the London travel show and had mentioned we would be driving ourselves through Zambia in 2006 and would Derek mind if we just pitched up at Kaingo and stayed for a few days. His Mum is a lovely lady and said not all and we must also come see her at her place the Forest Inn on the way to Mpika.

Sadly we didn't get the chance to visit her but at least we could try and find Kaingo and see what that was like. Again thanks to Chris we had a GPS location to aim for but even so finding the camp was really tricky as tracks crisscrossed each other and purposely there are no signs, clearly Derek didn't want to be found but eventually we navigated through the maze. 

It was mid afternoon when we arrived so we hoped any clients would be relaxing in their tents after lunch in readiness for their afternoon game drive and we wouldn't disturb them, but to our embarrassment they were still sat around the lunch tables. Even so Jules came out to greet us and was very friendly and hospitalable giving us cold cokes and showing us around the camp which is lovely. Rustic and low key but well appointed it blends in perfectly with it's surroundings, exactly how we like our camps to be and not a snooker table in sight!

We left after 30 minutes with the promise to come and stay on our way back down from Kenya, although at $525 p.p.p.n it will have to be a short stay!

It had been a lovely day but on the road back along the river  we were suddenly interrupted from our reverie by a high velocity gunshot going off close by. Almost immediately this was followed by another two rounds! Who the hell was shooting in a National Park and more importantly what were they firing at?

We drove on and as the bush cleared and we could see into the  river bed we saw them - three white guys, two in camouflage gear, one with a high powered rifle on a tripod, trophy hunters, in our opinion one of the lowest forms of human life!

They were aiming at something on our side of the river, the national park boundary side but because the banks are steep we couldn't see what it was. There was another big fat guy a little further away also in camouflage gear lying on the ground with his rifle on a short rest and as we watched he loosed off a couple of rounds towards our side of the river.

We couldn't believe this could be legal to fire towards the NP so we started to take some photo's, just then the guy not in camouflage, who we guessed must be the guide spotted us and the guy in camouflage without a gun started taking a closer look at us with his bino's!

They said something to the guy with the rifle who looked over then walked off to join the fat bugger lying on the river bank. He then looked over and we all stared at each other for awhile with Sue taking photo's then I began to get worried in case they suddenly thought it might be a laugh to put a round or two over our heads or even worse! 

Thankfully just then a game viewer came along and drew up alongside us. It was from Kaingo with just a white guide and his girlfriend on board, the hunters started to pack up so it seemed we had put them off any further carnage for the day at least.

The Kaingo guide thought they were probably shooting at Hippo as they popped their heads up trapped in one of the diminishing pools of water left on the park side of the river, hardly what one would call sport. (Later we came across a Hippo carcass in the river being fed on by Croc)

How anyone can make a trophy out of a Hippo is beyond us and even so why wear all  the camouflage gear when all you do is drive up the game and shoot it from a distance where it stands! The game in and near the park is quite used to humans so hardly ever runs off at the sound of a vehicle.

The Kaingo guide wasn't sure but felt it was probably legal for them to shoot towards the park but he agreed it was hardly conducive to an enjoyable game drive. Interestingly we have recently read that a study carried out years ago stated that the love of hunting was inversely related to intelligence, the inference being the more intelligent reject hunting, certainly some eminent early explorers such as Livingstone, Stanley and Speke abhorred the practice.

Sadly this was not an isolated incident as the last time we had been in South Luangwa we had witnessed a similar type of thing. It was in the 1990s whilst on a fly in trip to Tafika, we had heard gunshots whilst out on a game drive and then suddenly  four terrified Buffalo stampede out of the bush on the side of the river outside of the park and in a mad panic launched themselves down the bank across the river and up the other side to the safety of the park.

Shortly afterwards we passed a group of locals supervised by a couple of evil looking Indians hauling the carcass of a huge dead Buffalo onto the back of a small pickup truck - it transpired the Indians owned a butchery in town and often come to Luangwa to kill whatever they can get.

John Coppinger told us at the time that he has complained to the authorities for years about the hunting next to the park but to no avail, he even asked us to write him a letter complaining about this so he could take it up with them again, but clearly nothing has changed in the ten or so years since then.

The problem is hunting whether legal or illegal generates big money in Africa and the Zambian authorities seem to think the needs of the photographic safari tourist are secondary and not important enough to get it stopped (at least on the park boundary's). Maybe if people boycotted Zambia in favour of Botswana or Kenya where hunting is much better controlled or even banned then they may start to take more notice. 

South Luangwa is lovely but this constant hunting, virtually within the park, (you frequently hear gunshots whilst out on game drives) spoils it greatly so for us it is not a candidate as South or East Africa's top game park as a lot of guide books state (and we have visited virtually all of them by now). In time when we finally finish our travels we plan to add to benbooafrica a guide to our top ten parks.

Next day we felt too disgusted with the system to give Zambia  anymore of our hard earned dollars so we stayed in Wildlife camp and watched the game coming to the river, but even here we could still hear gunshots in the distance.

Tomorrow we would leave Southern Africa for a long while to cross the border into Malawi and continue Northwards to places unknown.