Masai Mara - Kenya

Throughout the night as we sat by the fire drinking our G&Ts we could hear Lions roaring in the distance and Hyena calling close by, that plus the Hippo's below us made it quite a noisy night

Up early to a bright fresh morning we headed out half expecting to find the herd of Wildebeest we had watched crossing last night to be on the plains behind our camp but there was no sign of them, it always amazes us how quickly game can disappear when they want to.

There was a variety of animals around though, as there always is in the Masai Mara there were small herds of Topi and Impala on the plains and the odd few Elephants. Seeing Elephants on the open Mara grasslands always seems a little surreal as we are so used to seeing them amongst forested areas.

The Mara with the Serengeti just over the border in Tanzania contains the highest concentration of meat on the hoof than anywhere else in the world and with that comes the highest concentration of predators. Put the two together and you need an efficient refuse collection service which is where the Hyena's, Jackals, Marabou Storks, Crows, Eagles and last but not least the Vultures come in.

Problem is in many parks the Vulture populations are falling, why, I'm not sure but this is becoming a problem, in Botswana for instance some park rangers are resorting to burning carcasses to avoid disease spreading. In the Mara at least there is still a reasonable amount of Vultures so carcasses are not yet a problem.

Driving down a track along the river we found another private campsite but this one was empty, it was also in a nice spot on the river bank but we preferred our camp better. Moving inland we drove through a big herd of Wildebeest, walking on the fringes was a lone Hyena on the lookout for the opportunity to grab a calf or a sick animal.

It was time to make coffee and have a break, as we sat a Kori Bustard came by, a large bird they are much sought after by  Arabs in the Middle East as prey for their falcons, luckily for the moment they are safe in places like the Mara. 

All the while we had been driving along the river we could see herds of Wildebeest wandering across the hills on the other side, the Narok side. Most would eventually try to cross the Mara river and enter the Mara Triangle on their journey Northwards.

As we had seen last night, crossings are spectacular events but you never know where or when they will happen so you have to look for the signs one may be about to occur. This being our first time in the Mara during the migration we did not yet have a feel for when one was likely to happen so just took pot luck.

Now as we drove we came across a big herd of Wildebeest massing on the opposite bank, they looked like they wanted to cross but the bank at this point was far too steep to get down so the first ones just stood on the edge as the numbers built up behind them. With nowhere to go there was the danger the sheer pressure from behind could push them over the edge. We watched for a while with trepidation but eventually the numbers thinned out so thankfully nothing bad happened.

By now it was midday and very hot so we decided to head back to camp for some lunch and a rest, as we arrived we could see Waterbuck on the opposite bank grazing and the Hippo in the water right below our tent, then we noticed something was wrong, a tub of Astonish left in the dish drainer was on the floor - we had had visitors while we were out!

Looking round we soon discovered the culprit, a lone Vervet Monkey was in a tree watching us, little bugger had clearly had a good root around while we were away and was now watching intently, he was quite aggressive and completely unafraid of humans so we would have to be on guard preparing lunch.  He was missing most of his tail and that morning we had found a Vervet tail just along the river bank from camp, maybe Stumpy as we now called him had pushed his luck once too often! 

We filled the solar shower and put it out in the Sun for when we got back from our afternoon game drive, before then we planned to relax for a while, however we had hardly settled down when suddenly we heard the lowing of many Wildebeest very close by then coming through the trees on the opposite bank came thousands of animals heading slowly towards the river.

We were amazed, surely we couldn't be about to witness a crossing two days on the run, not when hundreds of tourists have to make do with congregating in droves at the main crossing points along the river! Once again we grabbed our camera's and rushed along the river bank to get as good a view as we could. This was not really the done thing as of course being afoot carries it's own dangers but there was no way we could drive as the bush was too thick and we were just going a short distance so it was worth the risk.   

Being mid afternoon the light was much better for photography than yesterday so we hoped to get some good shots, we would have to use the Super Telephoto without a Tripod as there was no time to get that out the Landy and set up. The bush was so thick where the Wildebeest were starting to appear that at first we could only see a few animals but then as the herd swarmed through the trees the numbers very quickly swelled until unlike the herd we saw this morning the front animals were forced down the steep bank and into the water.

There was no way they could climb back up the bank so within seconds ten's and then hundreds of animals were leaping and jumping into the fast flowing river and swimming for their lives, it was amazing this was a major crossing and we had it all to ourselves less than 50 yards from our camp!  

As we watched them swimming across it looked like they were all going to make it when suddenly we heard a loud splash and there was a big Croc swimming fast to cut them off. One Wildebeest looked like he was in difficulty then we realised another Croc was trying to pull him under, for a moment we could hear his harrowing cries then he disappeared for good.

By now there was a constant stream of Wildebeests coming across and only a few Crocs, most were successful in getting across then one animal was just about to climb out to safety when he was attacked by a huge Croc, a titanic struggle ensued as the Croc tried to get a better hold on the Wildebeest while  the beesty struggled to get onto dry land.

The Wildebeest was an adult so was heavy and the water was shallow but if the Croc managed to get him into deeper water he was finished, however this time he was lucky and eventually managed to get free long enough to scramble out but his side must have hurt like hell.

By 2.45 they had all crossed and the river returned to normal, we walked back to camp exhilarated by the experience and looking to relax at last before going out on a drive. We had just sat down and started a drink when we heard thunderous running sounds then lots of splashing, surely not?

Once again we dashed to our viewing point and yes there was another group of Wildebeest crossing the river. Once again the Crocs attacked and this time one had a Wildebeest by the tail and was dragging it into deeper water, it looked like he was goner but then incredibly the Croc let go for some reason and the beesty swam like hell for the shore and made it to safety, talk about nail biting!

Finally by 3.05pm the crossing was finished and the river was once again calm and quiet, all the Wildebeests had melted into the bush and could no longer be seen or heard, the Crocs had also disappeared, probably putting their kills into their larders deep under water, just the Hippo's and a couple of Egyptian Geese remained, one minute a fierce struggle of life or death, next a very peaceful river scene, Africa is truly amazing.   

Despite not having much of a rest we still went out just after 4pm for a late afternoon game drive, the herds of Wildebeest we had seen crossing had again melted away but as we drove we did see something we had never come across before, a mother Hyena suckling two youngsters. Normally you see Hyena's singularly or in pairs and nearly always adults, sometimes you may see a sub adult but rarely very young ones as the adults keep them hidden from Lions and the like, this was the first time we had seen a mother suckling.

She had been lying in a mud wallow to keep cool and she looked heavily pregnant again either that or she had eaten a shed load of meat, either way her belly was fully distended. One youngster looked to be from the year before as he was much bigger than the other one and was probably past suckling but just taking the opportunity for some free milk.

By 5pm the sky had turned stormy and it was getting dark so we headed back to camp arriving just as it started to rain, so much for filling the solar shower. The storm came in, the rain became torrential as we sat in the tent with a beer and a Savannah munching on cashew nuts watching a brilliant lightning display.

We couldn't believe it was raining so hard, this was supposed to be the dry season, two months before the rains were due, what with heavy rains last year the weather in sub Saharan Africa is certainly doing strange things. By 7.30 the rain had stopped and we were able to get a good fire going but just when we thought we could start dinner the rain came back and we had to retreat into the tent until 9pm when it stopped, too late to cook we ended up with cuppa soups and red wine.

Throughout the night we could hear a Lion calling on the other side of the river but no answering calls from our side except for Hyena's who in turn started the Hippo in the river off. Checking the bush with the spotlight we caught eyes watching us, it was a Spotted Genet like the one in Samburu, except this one wasn't as bold. Just before going to bed we did another spot check and found a Hippo in the bushes behind us, amazing for such a big animal he had crept up without us hearing a thing but he meant no harm and soon had headed back into the bush, what a day!

Up at 6.30am the sky was bright blue with not a cloud, a relief because after last nights storm we feared once again our stay might be spoilt by the weather. Leaving camp to a lovely fresh sunny day, these are the mornings we love in Africa. Gathering on the other side of the river another big herd of Wildebeest looking to cross however the river bank was totally sheer at this point so they had no chance and eventually they moved off to try elsewhere.

We headed away from the river and took a grassy track which took off across the plains towards the hills. The great thing about the Mara is the network of tracks which criss cross the reserve. In most parks you are limited to where you can reach in a vehicle but in the Mara, at least for now, you can go down any track plus if you have a confirmed sighting of any of the big five then you can go off road to get closer - this is unique for a game park that we know off.

We had never been down this track before so it was a journey of exploration as well as a game drive, for the next four hours or so we saw no other vehicles as we drove through thousands of Wildebeest grazing on the lush grasslands, being lovers of African wildlife programs all our lives this was like a dream come true.

We spotted another Hyena moving through the herd looking for an easy prey but it was being watched too intently by all the adults to allow anything to happen. It was hot and sunny so we stopped to make some coffee and watch the spectacle, as the Wildebeest ahead of us disappeared over the ridge they were immediately replaced by others coming behind, it was never ending, unbelievable.   

The recent rains had left some of the tracks very wet and slippery, the Mara consists mainly of the notorious Black Cotton soil which when wet coats the tyres in seconds so it is like driving on a skating rink. 

We found our way back to the river, hundreds of Wildebeest were still on the other side looking to cross. One group had managed to get down the bank but were too afraid to get in the water. The current was so strong one animal had gone in but had failed to cross and was now unable to climb back out so was just standing up to its neck in water.

Another was at the rivers edge trapped up to it's chest in the mud, sadly there was little hope for the poor thing who was doomed to a lingering death unless we had very heavy rain and the river rose so she drowned but that was unlikely, more likely the Crocs and Vultures would find her and eat her alive.  The sad thing was her calf stood nearby watching her die, without her Mothers protection chances were even if the calf got off the bank it too would perish at the hands of some predator.    

Then we saw why they were so afraid to go in the water, another Wildebeest had tried swimming out but had become trapped up against a half submerged tree seemingly unable to move. Then a Wildebeest carcass came floating towards her and suddenly we realised this wasn't by accident, it was being dragged by a big Croc.

The trapped Wildebeest realised this just as we did because with a huge effort it got free of the log and started swimming like crazy towards our side of the river. Immediately the Croc let go of the carcass and went after her, for a minute we lost sight of her and the Croc, did she make it? Suddenly she appeared at the top of our bank, against all the odds she had survived - sadly as it subsequently turned she was the only one of the group to do so! 

It had been getting hotter and more humid by the hour and although still sunny the sky was getting that familiar stormy colour and we could hear thunder so we headed back to camp. Lucky we did because as we arrived it started to rain, quickly we grabbed a bottle of sparkly champagne and a carton of orange juice from the fridge and with two glasses retreated to the tent just as a torrential downpour started - maybe the Wildebeest trapped in the mud would get her deliverance after all?  

It was very atmospheric drinking Bucks Fizz whilst watching the  thunderstorm and we were quite happy to kick back for a while, but suddenly we heard the lowing of many Wildebeest and rushing to our viewing spot we arrived just in time to watch as yet a new herd started to cross.

This time all got across safely except for one who was taken by a Croc, he put up a brave fight but eventually the Croc proved too strong, his cry's were heartrending and it was horrific to watch as he was dragged under and this was nature as it is meant to be.

Before 6.30pm we could hear Lion calling also Hyena & Zebra, this in turn kicked off the Hippo in the river directly below us,  what a fantastic camp site this was proving to be! The storm meant the night was chilly but we were nice and warm around a big camp fire and it was needed as we heard another Lion, probably on night patrol, roaring behind us very close to camp. 

The night was very vocal with lions, Hyena's and even the distinctive sawing sound of a Leopard from the other side of the river. Up around 6.30am to a sunny morning as we came out the tent our first sight was of to two Buffalo grazing on the opposite bank, a big Croc in the water feasting on the leg of a Wildebeest and another basking on the bank, clearly too fat to move after gorging all night.

Leaving camp an hour later we drove out across the grasslands, the yellow grasses were beautiful in the early morning sunshine with large herds of Wildebeests grazing contentedly across the hillsides. Unless you see it with your own eyes it is hard to comprehend the sheer number of animals that the migration brings, at its peak no where else can match this spectacle.

Nowhere was this more evident than over our last few days in the Mara, each day we witnessed Wildebeest crossings, large numbers of Crocs gorging on carcasses, away from the river we came across Hyena's, Lions, Leopards & Cheetah's and at night we were kept awake by their calls, it was quite simply the best game viewing experience we had ever had.

There are too many incidents to mention but two will always stand out in our memory, the first was when we came across a Mother Cheetah with four almost fully grown cubs. Just seeing five Cheetahs together was in itself amazing but we also witnessed them make a kill and best of all we were the only people there.

We watched as the Mother chased down and killed an Impala and watched as the whole family feasted, we had this all to ourselves for quite a while until inevitably a game viewer from one of the lodges found us and pretty soon others arrived as the drivers got on their radios with news of the sighting, with them came the Cheetah anti harassment rangers in their small Suzuki Jeep (Cheetah 3) to keep a watch on proceedings.

It was turning into a circus so we moved on, we had had the best of it anyway. As it was we only had to go a mile or so before we found a big male Lion resting in the undergrowth of a Lugga (river bed). All around him were hundreds of Wildebeest but he was not taking the slightest bit of notice, we noticed why, the remains of a Wildebeest were in the thicket with him!

The second incident was not so private and nowhere near as thrilling, in fact the opposite was the case. After the Lion we drove back to the Cheetahs but by now there was no sign of them or any of the game viewers, all that was left was the Vultures on the kill so we headed towards the river.

As we drove we could see many many Wildebeest in the distance and as we got closer we realised there were thousands with many more joining, all running - something wasn't right, there was feeling of panic in the air! Normally  when frightened Wildebeest will run for a while then stop, then run some more but this enormous herd was stampeding and not from one direction but from many, but what was causing this?

The Wildebeest were heading towards the river as if desperate  to cross but this made no sense either, most had trekked for weeks and risked life and limb in trying to reach the Mara Triangle so why the sudden urge to cross back, whatever it was it was very powerful as lemming like they raced on.

To make matters worse word was obviously getting out as a rapidly growing number of game viewing vehicles from the various lodges and camps came racing in from all directions too, the drivers clearly desperate to get their clients into the thick of the action so they could get better tips, regardless that this was panicking the Wildebeest even more! 

The way to the river was blocked by thick undergrowth, similar in fact to the approach to our campsite a few miles up river. However, unlike our camp site there was no obvious track leading through the bush but this wasn't deterring the drivers of the game viewers who were determined to follow the Wildebeest to see what was happening, where were the Rangers to put a stop to it?

We decided to head off to the Ranger post near the bridge to alert them something very bad was taking place. Luckily we didn't need to go far before we met Samwell & Winston, the guys in Cheetah 3 who had guided us to our camp on day one. Apparently they had been parked in the hills watching over the Cheetahs when they noticed the commotion and had immediately realised something was going on so were on their way to investigate.

We told them about the game viewers and they rushed off we followed and watched from a safe distance as they headed into the bush and soon after the game viewers started to re-appear one by one. As fast as Wildebeests were trying to get through to the river others where now coming back out again, in short it was  pandemonium.  

By now there were at least fifty game viewers hovering on the fringes so we drove off to try and find an open spot down river where we hoped we might see what was happening to the hundreds of Wildebeest which had disappeared into the bush and not come back, maybe they had successfully crossed?

However, when we reached the river bank and looked up stream we were absolutely stunned by the sight that met us, hundreds of dead Wildebeest were floating down the river, many piling up in the shallows or getting trapped against submerged trees, the sheer number was unbelievable, it had been a disaster, like none we had seen before.

In the coming weeks it was reported in the International press that some 20,000 Wildebeest perished that day, the problem was the sheer volume of animals had forced the ones at the front into the water and at this part of the river they had no way of getting out on the other side, this coupled with the deep water and fast current meant most drowned.

We learned later that every few years the Wildebeests try crossing at this spot, no one knows why, but in the past they had always been in relatively small numbers (hundreds) so the Rangers have managed to ward most of them off, however because of the late rains this years migration had been  exceptional so the numbers were so huge it had been a disaster waiting to happen.

The next day we left the Masai Mara to return to Nairobi, the week or so we had been here had been truly unforgettable and although at times we had seen nature at it's most cruel we had fulfilled a lifelong dream of experiencing the great migration at it's height.

In a couple of days we would head off to Tanzania on a long journey to fulfil another lifelong dream, we just hoped it would be just as memorable and exciting as the Mara had been.