Mbeya & Katavi NP - Tanzania

It is over 200 miles from Nyika to the Tanzanian border which once you leave the town of Rumphi  mostly follows the lake shore. It is possible to reach and cross the border in one day but it's a long haul and once in Tanzania there is really no where to stay until you reach Mbeya 75 odd miles away.

We decided to get as close to the border as possible and camp overnight crossing into Tanzania first thing in the morning. On the way up the lake you see frequent signs for places to stay so we didn't envisage any major problems finding somewhere.

At 2.30pm we reached the turnoff for Chitembe Beach Camp so although it was still early we thought we would take a look see. The place was fairly quiet when we pulled in but we could see at least one overland truck. The camp site looked like it was part of the car park, hardly inviting, still we wandered into the bar to get a drink and maybe something to eat.

A surly character called Roy was sitting behind the bar chatting to some punters. He looked up but didn't acknowledge us at first so we looked around, a sign over the bar read " Don't' ask for the generator or music to be turned off - just go back to your tent"   Nice customer service!

Roy finally deigned to come over to see us but we had already seen enough and made a quick exit - scrub the Chitembe Beach Camp. We heard later Roy was an ex overland driver who had recently sold the camp to a Dutch couple and was just holding the fort till they arrived and it showed!!

Next place to check out was the Mushroom Farm, a few people had recommended this place so we drove with high hopes. The  farm lies about 10km off the main lake road on the turnoff to Livingstonia. The road to Livingstonia is steep, very steep and renowned for the number of hair pin bends, about 12 in total with a sheer drop on one side and no barriers.

Now Rupert requires a big turning circle so on some bends we had to back up and do it in two stages, at times backing up towards the cliff edge - just the sort of road Sue loves. After 30 minutes of climbing we finally saw a sign for the Mushroom Farm and a small turn off so we pulled over. To our surprise within a very short distance the track just stopped in the bush. The cliff edge was a short distance away but we could not see any buildings or further signs for the Mushroom Farm, it was as if it ceased to exist.

As we were wondering where the hell to go a local guy suddenly appeared and confirmed that the camp did exist and we should follow him on foot as we could not drive any further. If we decided to stay we would have to hump all our gear in on foot, which would almost certainly be no good, but as we had taken all the trouble to get here we thought we should at least take a look.

We followed the guy along a narrow footpath through thick bush and then suddenly came upon the camp. The Mushroom Farm must be so called because you would need to be on magic ones to camp there! The camp consists of just five sites where you can pitch a tent, each one is perched precariously on the cliff edge with room for just a small tent, if you didn't fancy sleeping on the face of the Eiger there was just one small chalet.

The camp was deserted, everyone was out abseiling, the local guy showed us around and we have to say the place was different. The loo worked by composting (you threw leaves on top of your poo) and the tiny dining room looked out over the plain far below. It would have been interesting to stay one night but camping with our big ground tent was not an option and as the chalet was taken there was nothing for it but to return all the way to the main road and carry on towards the border.

By the time we reached the main road again it was gone 4.30pm, all this faffing around was starting to cost us, we still had no idea where we would spend the night and we were getting close to the border. With just fifty miles to go we saw a sign for a place called 'The Sangilo Sanctuary', it was now 5pm so whether we liked it or not this would have to do.

Sangilo is owned by another ex overland driver called Mark, a Geordie, but we were welcomed and shown round by Precious one of his local guys. Sangilo is in quite a nice spot overlooking the lake and at US$5 per person we had intended to camp but the campsite turned out to be a bit of sloping rough ground between the kitchen and a couple of old overland trucks with no views at all, not at all appealing.

We decided to look at the rooms perched on the hillside overlooking the lake. The double cottages with shared ablutions cost US $30 whereas the en suite rooms cost just $10 more and after a debate Mark somewhat reluctantly agreed to let us have one for $30, $20 more than camping but a lot less hassle and much more pleasant.

As soon as we moved in we discovered there was no hot water, it turned out none of the rooms had hot water, a little fact Mark neglected to mention! However, by now he had done a runner so we got the kitchen to boil up a big bucket of hot water which we mixed with cold and using a colander improvised our own shower - this is Africa after all.

That night we were the only guests as we ate dinner looking out over the lake watching the lights of the fishermen out in their dug out canoes - all very romantic. Next morning we breakfasted early so we could cross the border in good time, breakfast was not included in the room rate so we planned to pay for that and dinner in Malawi Kwacha and the room in US dollars, simple.

However, when Precious brought the bill he told us that Mark's orders where it all had to be paid in Kwacha. We were gob smacked, firstly Mark quoted dollars when we discussed the room price, secondly we didn't have enough Kwacha and thirdly it was unheard of that any place in Africa would not welcome Dollars cash! Poor old Precious was extremely embarrassed by it all telling us this had happened before and Mark always left him to face the customer's wrath.

We explained that regardless of what Mark wanted we simply didn't have the Kwacha so he would have to accept dollars or lump it. Precious went off to get Mark who eventually appeared looking very grumpy.

He asked what the problem was and we told him if he wanted paying for the room it was dollars or nothing and why quote the room rate in dollars if he didn't accept them? He said by law he could only accept Kwacha, which was bullshit and anyway dollars cost more in petrol and time to go to the bank and change back to Kwacha, bullshit again!

He said if we didn't have enough Kwacha Precious would convert the room amount in Kwacha to dollars using a rate which effectively meant the cost of the room rose to $35 and with that little tit bit he stormed off. Whatever! we just wanted out, the final insult came when we gave Precious $40 and he had no change in dollars, it seemed Mark kept them all! He went off to get our change, returning 10 minutes later sheepishly saying Mark wouldn't even open his door!

We felt so sorry for Precious having to work for such an asshole so we just took the change in Kwacha and got the hell out, needless to say we have passed through that way at least four times since and avoid Sangilo Sanctuary like the plague, ensuring we go from Makuzi to Mbeya in one day.

The last town you pass through before the border is Karonga where we filled up with diesel, from there it's just 45km to the border post at Songwe. The formalities on the Malawi side were slow but straightforward, taking 30  minutes to complete.

As soon as you cross into Tanzania it's reminded us of the crossing from Botswana to Zambia at Kazenguela, like there we were immediately surrounded by hordes of guys wanting to exchange any currency for Tanzanian Shillings - total bedlam.

Tanzanian immigration was slow, very slow and the Carnet was thoroughly inspected so it took us over an hour to get through everything. In Tanzania you have to pay a road tax which is US $20 for up to one month but if you say you are transiting the country and will spend less than 7 days then you only pay $5, but beware, this is zealously checked when you exit the country and you will be made to pay the $20 if you over stay by even one day!

Thus, it was 2.45pm by the time we started off for Mbeya (Tanzania is an hour ahead of Malawi so you also lose an hour which doesn't help). Mbeya is 117km from the border and is really the first place of any size you reach travelling from Malawi, unless you go onto Iringa, another 330km away!

It was near 4.30pm as we were drove into town, Mbeya is not on the normal tourist route unless like us you want to visit the West of the country. Most people head Eastwards towards Iringa and Dar es Salaam and then to the coast or onwards to Kenya. Our intention was to check out a hotel in town which the guide book said did camping but we missed the turning and ended up heading further West out of town towards a hotel called Utengule.

The Utengule Country Hotel is based next to a working coffee plantation both owned by a Swiss group. It was described as the best place to stay in Mbeya, mainly catering to business travellers and people from Mbeya who come out for the day to use the pool etc. It is a funny location as it is some 30 minutes drive from town on a very rough road but once there is a lovely place to stay sitting high in the hills overlooking the plain to the West, so you get great Sunsets.

On arrival we spoke to Sophie the receptionist who showed us a room in the main building which was very nice but @ $80 per night was a bit rich for us as we would need at least two nights here to stock up before heading to Katavi. Just as we were resigning ourselves to the long trek back into town Sophie surprised us by saying they also did camping for $10 each! We asked where and she showed us to a spot next to the tennis court, not great but not bad either. What about showers and loos? They could give us a key to a chalet close by which we could use, happy days our own private luxury ablutions - we would  camp!

On our way to see the campsite we bumped into a white couple coming out of one of the rooms, he was carrying a table lamp. As you do we just smiled, said hello and then taking them for guests jokingly told them to nick the towels instead as they would be easier to hide! At first they looked a bit taken a back but then half laughed and we all went on our separate ways.

Later back at reception just as we were about to sort out our details with Sophie the white guy suddenly appeared again and over hearing our conversation about camping asked "where the rooms too much for our budget?" he then introduced himself as Francis, the manager, Ooops! 

We thought we were about to be shown the door but again to our surprise he made us an offer of a room at half price! Mmm, that added more complication, we had been happy to camp but now this! It was getting dark and I could see from Sue's face that for her the choice was made. The only problem was we could not drive close to the rooms and in our situation, where we live out of Rupert we always need to park close to any room we take!

Francis heard this then went one better saying they had a very nice family chalet which was away from the main building and which normally cost $120 per night, although they usually don't allow people to park right next to it we could do so and still have it at half price! We went to take a look, the place was huge and very nicely furnished, I knew by the look on Sue's face if I refused this I would be on hard rations for the rest of the week, so it was a done deal!

Great we thanked Francis and went off to move in, by now we were really looking forward to a couple of sundowners followed by a nice hot shower and then dinner in the restaurant. We tried the shower, no hot water, bloody hell not again after the debacle at Sangilo! Half price or not the one thing I detest is cold showers so I went off to reception to complain.

Francis was still there with Hassan his assistant, as soon as they heard about the water they came back to take a look. Francis was quite new to the hotel but Hassan was an old hand and it turned out that although the immersion was switched on in the chalet nothing would happen unless you switched on another switch in the squash court! Well this is Africa!

It would now take too long to wait for the water to heat up so we decided to eat then shower later, a bit disappointing but never mind. At the restaurant we enjoyed a few drinks and an excellent dinner then it was time to get back and enjoy a shower, it had been a trying day. We asked for the bill and the waitress gave us the very nice news that Francis had ordered our dinner would be complimentary as an apology for the mess up with the shower - what a contrast between Mark's attitude only that morning and Francis's.

Although the half price deal was never quite repeated we now always stay at Utengule on our way through Tanzania and have become good friends with Francis and his wife Fionuela. As for Mark? Well as my old boss used to say you never buy anything  off people you don't like!

We spent the next two days getting supplies for our trek to Katavi and doing internet. Mbeya is hardly a metropolis, the two best places to shop being a garage shop run by some enterprising Indians and a little 'supermarket' run by a Russian woman and her Tanzanian husband where you order over a little counter and it is fetched by an assistant, much like the old Co-Op days in the UK, however compared to Malawi (outside of Lilongwe or Blantyre) it was like shopping at Harrods!

Next day we left early for the long journey towards Lake Tanganyika and Katavi. Katavi was a park we had only heard vague stories about, but it intrigued us as it was talked about as being like Africa of old, lots of game and few people.

In the 1980s whilst living in Botswana we had once camped in  the Chobe Forest Reserve at a little known spot called Tchinga. At the time Botswana was going through years of drought and Tchinga being a man made water hole had virtually the only water for miles around so 24/7 it attracted huge numbers of game, especially Ele's and Lion. We camped there for four nights and apart from one other couple we were totally on our own. It was exhilarating enough during the day having herds of Ele walking past and Lions permanently lying close by but when it got dark it became something else. 

When we returned to Gabs we told some friends who were about to go out on safari about Tchinga, they came back saying their nerves could only take one night there! Since then in over 20 years of visiting Africa we have never quite experienced anything like the sheer adrenalin rush of excitement and fear that was Tchinga at that time and we thought we never would again -   Katavi was about to change all that!

We left Utengule just before 8am and headed West out of town towards a very busy little town called Tunduma, some 70 miles away. The road is good tar to here so we reached Tunduma around 9.20 but from here you leave the tar behind and head out on a rough dirt road  towards a place called Subawanga, approx 140 miles away, from here the going gets slow, very slow.

It was after 1.15pm by the time we reached Subawanga, this is the last place you can get fuel before heading on the 130 or so  miles to Katavi. If anything the road from here is even worse with major potholes and severe corrugations so after a while you whole body aches with the bouncing up and down, poor old Rupert was getting a right hammering.

Just after 5pm we finally reached the southern boundary of Katavi, apart from a brief stop at Subawanga to refuel we had been driving solidly over mostly very rough roads for a full nine hours - this is the reality of Africa exploration away from the beaten track and it always brings home to us how tough and determined the early explorers must have been.

Even though we were now officially in the park we still had 30 or so miles to go before reaching Sitalike, the ranger post at the park headquarters. We were a little surprised there was no gate or checkpoint as you entered the park but then remembered the road from here is a public one which heads towards Mpanda and the borders with Burundi, Rwanda and the DRC so a lot of traffic just transits the park along it.

Because of this we didn't expect to see much game on the way in so were pleasantly surprised to come across warthog, baboon, waterbuck, eight Giraffe, three Roan antelope and even a big herd of Buffalo. We always like to see Buff as where they are Lion are sure to follow, then lo and behold we suddenly came across a big male Lion and a short way away the body of  a young Buffalo, if this was just the drive in then it boded well for the rest of the park.

We stopped to take a closer look at the Lion and realised he was really old, almost decrepit in Lion terms. You could see the poor old bugger was absolutely knackered from killing the Buff and had not even started to eat it. He was probably an old King now deposed of his crown and fated to wander on his own till he eventually died or was killed. Hunting for these old guys is tough as in their prime they have had the support of the rest of the pride, especially the females to do the hard bit, usually coming in after the kill to take their due share as king.

To make matters worse when he looked up we realised he was also missing an eye, sadly somehow we didn't think this guy was long for this world but we had to get on, we would come back in the morning to see how he was. 

It was 6.45 and getting dark by the time we reached the ranger post, a few guys were sat on the stoop of a hut relaxing before  darkness hit and they went indoors. We pulled up and one guy came to greet us introducing himself as Nicolas, he said the office was closed but he would show us where to camp then come back in the morning to sort out our details, we were thankful for that as we just wanted to get settled in.

Normally, if we can avoid it. we never camp at a park headquarters as they are busy and we much prefer to be at sites deeper in the park and more off the beaten track so we were pleasantly surprised when he told us the campsite was some 2km away, we would be completely on our own there, would we be ok? Yeah no problem we said.

By the time we reached the site it was pitch dark, Nicolas unlocked the doors to the ablution block and drove off back the post, clearly he didn't want to stay out too long. We inspected the place by torchlight, the camp stood amongst a stand of tall trees, quite nice really and we were also surprised to find the ablutions had clean, decent flush loo's but sadly only cold showers - still we had camped at much worse.

We were not that far from where we had seen the old Lion and whilst we knew he wouldn't be moving around our first job was to collect wood and get a fire going, there is always something primeval about setting up camp alone in a dark strange place when you know extremely dangerous animals could be just round the corner - we love it!

That night after showers we sat around a big fire eating a delicious Durban curry washed down with beers, Hunters dry and G&T's, it was 10pm we were totally knackered but relieved to have completed the journey. Throughout the night we could hear Lion roaring a little way off and in the trees we could pick out the eyes of bush babies, somehow we just knew this was going to be a great trip. 

We were up at 6.30am, it was sunny and warm and the campsite didn't look anywhere near as threatening as the night before.  A Hyena had woken us in the early hours calling somewhere close by and the Lion's had called but some way off.

As we are packing up I started to quickly check Rupert out as we do first thing each day and was surprised to find one of the rear shock absorbers had lost it's bottom mountings. We hadn't heard anything on the way up, mind you the road was so bad we were surrounded by rattles and knocks all the way anyway. This was a bugger as it meant getting out some bits buried deep in the back which would slow us up, especially as we were keen to go back and see the old Lion before heading deeper into the park.

Eventually we cobbled together a fix but it was 9.30am before we could leave camp. First stop was the parks office where we expected to see Nicolas but he was nowhere to be seen. He had warned us that even though we had arrived late we may be charged the full rate for last night which would be US $140, so we were relieved in a way that he wasn't about and the lady ranger just assumed we had just arrived that morning so only charged us from today!

Our intention was to drive to the other ranger post and only other camp site in the middle of the park near Lake Chada and the Katisunga Plain, but first we couldn't resist the temptation to re-visit our old Lion. When we got back the old boy was still there, soundly asleep but during the night he had been joined by another male who was now feeding on the buffalo. This one also looked old but not quite as decrepit, maybe it was his brother and they used to run a pride together but now like the one eye guy was too old so were destined to wander together for the rest of their days on their own in the bush.

At 11.30am we finally headed off into the interior arriving at the ranger post around 2pm. The first thing that hit us as we pulled up was the smell; the ranger post (and campsite) is situated on the bank of the by now virtually dry Katavi River.

Here the parks people have installed a borehole where you can hand pump up from deep within the earth surprisingly clear water. However, just below the pump huddled together in what could only be described as a stinking mud bath were the most Hippo we had ever seen in one spot. We were gob smacked, there must have been over 500 in just the small area we could see and it then stretched on around a bend.

Standing around the borehole chattering away ten to the dozen and seemingly oblivious to the stench were a group of what sounded like Russian tourists who when they did speak English did so with an American twang. We said hello as we got out of Rupert and just one guy nodded back the rest more or less ignored us - well f**k you too we thought.

We started to look around and with dismay realised that unlike Sitalike the campsite here was situated just behind the rangers huts on a rough bit of ground with very little shade. What shade there was was already taken up by a small tent - no doubt belonging to our neighbourly Russian friends.

A young ranger came over to speak to us and we asked was there anywhere else we could camp as the site looked full, he just looked blank and shook his head. Shit, we had come all this way expecting to be the only people here and by bad luck had coincided with the KGB's summer holiday!

Sue said she would rather go back to the camp at the headquarters which was at least pleasant but I didn't really fancy ending up there. Just then another local guy, not in uniform, came up with a big smile. He introduced himself as Phillip and asked if we were looking to camp, we said yes but we didn't fancy squeezing in with the Russians.

He told us they were some sort of research group who would be leaving quite soon but not for another day or so but if we didn't mind being on our own he could let us camp on a special site! Our ears perked up, special site eh, these usually were right up our alley but we didn't want to get too hopeful. Phillip said as it was in the heat of the afternoon all the game would be sleeping so we could walk around to the site to take a look but he stressed don't under any circumstances do so once the Sun went down.

We followed him down a path through the bush with the dry river bed (Donga) on one side and some palm trees on the other. As we came out of the bush we rounded the Donga and were suddenly out in the open looking straight up a valley where the river flowed in the wet season. We were totally unprepared for what we saw, all the way up the valley were herds of game, Elephant, Zebra, Hartebeest, Giraffe, Buffalo, Hippo, Impala etc grazing on the short grass.

Our camp spot Phillip showed us was under a couple of Palm Trees looking straight out on all this, it was like having a view of the garden of Eden.  Phillip explained that normally we would have to pay an extra $25 each per night to camp here but as the other site was full he would let us stay at no extra charge - he asked how long did we plan to stay, without any hesitation or discussion Sue and I both said at least 4 nights! 

There was a small pool of Hippo just around the corner from our site but thankfully no smell and we were far enough away from the main pool to be free of that as well. It would be too far to walk to the ablutions, especially at night so our portable loo and solar shower would come in very handy here. The only thing we would need was to fill the water containers from time to time to wash dishes etc, the water tank in Rupert was full so we had plenty for drinking.

Normally if we stay anywhere for more than two nights we use the ground tent but for some inexplicable reason we opted to use the roof tent instead this time, maybe it was because Phillip  told us there was a pride of twelve Lions just a short distance up the valley!

Within minutes of setting up camp we received our first visitor, a huge Bull Elephant came into camp to check us out. Showing no signs of fear he came no more than 20 feet away before moving off, it was almost as if he had hardly seen humans before, if all the game was as bold as this then we were in for a very interesting stay.

At 5pm we went out in search of the Lion pride Phillip had mentioned and sure enough as we crossed the dry river bed (Donga) a Lioness came running towards us. Even though it was still quite hot she looked as if she was trying to hunt but what? Then we saw the object of her attention it was a Vervet Monkey caught for a second out in the open, luckily her interest was only half hearted and just in time the Vervet managed to climb a tree.

The Lioness was less than a five minute walk from our camp, so where was the rest of the pride? As we came out of the river bed we saw them, dotted along the ridge sleeping in the shade were eight adults, including a big male and six or so sub adults or yearlings.

We settled down to watch and as the Sun started to drop it got even better when a small group of Buffalo suddenly came into view walking slowly down the Donga for their evening drink. One of the Lionesses clocked the Buff and immediately got into a crouch position, the Buff's clearly didn't realise the Lions were there and just came on, we held our breath, surely it was too much to expect a kill within a few hours of arriving in the park?

As if by telepathy a couple of other Lionesses who had moments before looked to be sound asleep crouched low to the ground, staring intently at the Buffalo and still the Buff came on giving no indication they had seen them.

Some of the Lionesses were young and obviously still  inexperienced as before the herd could get closer one, unable to  contain her excitement, broke cover and charged one of the Buff's chasing it across the donga, up the other bank and out of sight. None of the other Lions joined her in the chase, in fact the male did not show any signs of even waking up! This  seemed strange at first till we saw the Lioness coming back, somehow the others seemed to know she would be unsuccessful.

Amazingly the remaining Buffaloes did not run far so now the prides attention turned to them and this time it looked more serious. Waiting for them to come closer and crouching low five Lionesses and a sub adult male managed to ambush one of the Buffs. 

We have never managed to witness a Lion kill in it's entirety from start to finish so our hearts were pounding. To top it all we were the only people there so had ring side seats. One Lioness managed to get on the Buffs back trying to drag it down by the bum, the classic scene from all the Survival documentary's! However, TV is one thing now we felt sure it was about to happen did we really want to see a full grown Buffalo torn to pieces right in front of our eyes?

However, Buffaloes are very dangerous animals in their own right, being able to move at up to 40mph with the weight of a two ton car. The Lioness was desperately trying to hold onto the Buffs backside but didn't have the strength to pull it down, the others tried to help her but the Buff kept swinging around and charging them and unbelievably eventually broke away with the pride in pursuit.

Just then a small Ele wandered in and looked like he too was about to join the fracas, then the male Lion who till now had been lying next to his lady suddenly started roaring right next to us, we were so taken up listening to him that we didn't notice when yet another Lioness walked straight past Sue's open window to join him, exciting stuff or what.

Both started to follow the rest of the pride who were still harassing the Buffalo, for sure we felt they would make a kill tonight but sadly by now it was almost 7pm and getting dark so we had to leave them and head back to camp - but what a first afternoon!

It was dark by the time we reached camp, we lit a fire and all the lamps, the water in the solar shower was still warm so we even managed to get a quick shower. We could hear the Lions calling a little way off interspersed with the calls of Hyena and Hippo.

Hippo calls of a night can be very eerie as they make all manner of sounds, almost pre-historic and at times like the haunting call of Whales. Indeed as we prepared dinner we heard a Hippo mooching about in the bushes just behind the camp then just as we were about to eat something big came running towards us through the bush.

We couldn't see a thing so we high tailed it into Rupert, Sue still holding a piece of chicken on her knife, whatever it was passed very close by just out of our sight, we suspected the Hippo had wandered onto an Ele and they had spooked each other  - whatever it was something told us this was going to be a very interesting site.